The process of making ducana is a hands-on activity that families do together. The sweet potato is peeled and grated by hand, then mixed with grated coconut, flour, sugar, cinnamon, and sometimes vanilla. The mixture is scooped onto squares of banana leaf, which are folded up tightly and tied with string before being lowered into boiling water.
Banana leaves have been used as natural food wrappers all over the tropical world for thousands of years — in the Caribbean, Central America, India, and Southeast Asia. They are completely biodegradable, give food a lovely aroma, and keep the dumpling perfectly moist while it cooks. It is one of the oldest forms of sustainable packaging.
Ducana is a dish that connects Antigua to its agricultural history. Sweet potatoes and coconuts both grow well in the Caribbean climate, so ducana could be made from ingredients found right in the garden. The recipe has been passed down through families for generations, and many grandmothers in Antigua have their own secret twist on it.
Like many traditional foods, ducana is eaten most at weekends and special occasions. It is a comfort food — the kind that makes people feel connected to home and family. Children who learn to make it with their parents or grandparents often say it is one of their favourite cooking memories.