21 June is the winter solstice in the southern hemisphere — the shortest day of the year and the moment when the sun begins its journey back towards longer days. For the Aymara, this is the beginning of a new cycle. The number of years in the Aymara calendar is different from our own — it is currently a much larger number, because the Aymara have been counting years for a very long time.
At Tiwanaku, the sunrise aligns perfectly with the ancient Gateway of the Sun — the enormous carved stone doorway built more than 1,500 years ago. Many people believe the builders of Tiwanaku designed the gateway specifically to frame this solstice sunrise, meaning the celebration has been happening in the same spot for over a thousand years.
People arrive at Tiwanaku in the middle of the night, wrapped in warm blankets and colourful woven textiles. They bring offerings of flowers, food and incense. Yatiris — Aymara spiritual leaders — perform ceremonies and prayers. When the sun appears on the horizon, the crowd cheers and raises their open hands towards the sky to absorb the first light.
Willka Kuti was made a national public holiday in Bolivia, which means the whole country can join in. Even in cities far from Tiwanaku, people gather on rooftops and open spaces to watch the sunrise on this morning. It is a moment when ancient traditions and modern Bolivia come together.