The pastry dough is similar to a sweet bread dough — flour, yeast, butter, sugar and egg. Long strips are rolled thin and then wound in a tight spiral around the spit, overlapping slightly so the heat seals them together. The rotation over the heat means every side cooks evenly.
When it slides off the spit, a trdelník is a hollow tube, slightly crispy outside and soft inside. The traditional coating is a mixture of cinnamon and sugar, sometimes with ground walnuts pressed into the outside. The smell of cinnamon and caramelising sugar is one of the most welcoming scents at Czech Christmas markets.
Trdelník is especially associated with markets and festivals. In Prague's Old Town Square and in cities like Brno, stalls set up with rows of spits turning over heat, and you can watch your pastry cook while you wait. It is best eaten warm, straight from the spit.
Food historians believe the dish originally came from Slovakia and Transylvania (now Romania) before becoming popular across Czechia. Today it is one of the most recognisable Czech street foods and is enjoyed all year round, not just at Christmas.
