The two main inhabited islands are Dahlak Kebir and Nokra. Dahlak Kebir is the largest in the group and has a small community of fishermen and their families who have lived there for many generations. Life on the island is peaceful and closely connected to the sea – children learn to fish and swim young, and the day is organised around tides and weather.
The archipelago is a marine protected area, which means the government looks after the wildlife carefully. Divers and researchers come to study the underwater world, which includes whale sharks (the biggest fish in the sea, but totally harmless), manta rays with wings wider than a car, and colourful fields of brain coral and staghorn coral.
Pearl diving was an important industry in the Dahlak islands for thousands of years. Ancient texts from the Roman period mention pearls from these islands being traded across the world. Today the pearl fishery is much smaller, but some families still dive for pearls using traditional techniques, holding their breath and sinking down to the seabed.
The flat, shallow waters around many of the islands turn vivid shades of green and turquoise depending on the depth, creating a patchwork of colour that is stunning from the air. Traditional dhow boats are the main way to travel between the islands, and journeys can take several hours across open, glittering water.