The word 'jollof' comes from the Wolof people, who live across Senegal and The Gambia. Over hundreds of years, the dish spread across the whole region, and now almost every country in West Africa has its own version. People get very enthusiastic debating whose jollof rice is best — it is one of the friendliest arguments in the world.
In Guinea-Bissau, jollof rice is often made with whole fish placed on top to cook in the steam from the pot. The fish absorbs the flavours of the tomato sauce and the spices, and the rice underneath turns deep orange as it cooks. The pot is covered with a tight lid so all the steam stays inside and the rice becomes perfectly fluffy.
Making jollof rice well is a skill that takes practice. The rice can burn at the bottom if the heat is too high — but a little bit of scorching is actually considered a treat by many people, because the crispy bits at the bottom of the pot have an especially rich, smoky flavour.
Jollof rice is the kind of dish that brings people together. It is cooked for celebrations, family gatherings, school parties, and busy market-day lunches. The smell of jollof rice cooking is one of the great scents of West Africa — warm, spiced, and full of promise.