The soup is made from a large orange squash called joumou (a type of calabaza pumpkin), which gives the broth its deep golden colour and creamy texture. Into the pot go beef, potatoes, carrots, turnips, cabbage, plantain, and pasta — everything simmered together with garlic, thyme, and the Haitian spice blend épis until the kitchen fills with an incredible smell.
On 1st January, Haitian families wake up early to start the soup, which takes several hours to make properly. Neighbours share pots with each other; extended families gather together; even people who live abroad try to make it on that day to feel connected to Haiti. In some cities around the world with large Haitian communities, big public bowls of soup joumou are shared with everyone for free.
The soup has a beautiful story behind it. Before Haiti became independent in 1804, this rich pumpkin soup was a dish that only certain people were allowed to eat — ordinary Haitian people were not permitted to have it. When Haiti became the first free Caribbean nation, one of the very first celebrations was to cook a big pot of soup joumou and share it with everyone equally. That tradition has continued on every 1st January ever since.
Making soup joumou is a communal event. Children help peel vegetables, stir the pot, and taste the broth as it develops. Grandparents tell stories. Music plays. The whole experience of making and eating it together is as important as the soup itself.