The Fulani are traditionally nomadic herders, meaning they travel with their cattle across the land in search of fresh grass and water. Because they always have plenty of milk, they became skilled at turning it into cheese — a food that lasts much longer than fresh milk and is easy to carry on long journeys.
To make wagasi, fresh milk is warmed gently and then a natural substance extracted from a plant called Calotropis procera is stirred in. This causes the milk to thicken and separate into solid curds and liquid whey — just as lemon juice or vinegar causes milk to curdle. The solid part is pressed into rounds, salted, and left to set firm.
Wagasi is eaten in many ways. Some people eat it fresh and soft, crumbled over salads or mixed into stews. Others fry or grill it until it develops a golden crust on the outside while staying firm inside — it is particularly delicious grilled over charcoal at a market stall and eaten hot with chilli sauce.
In Cotonou's markets, you can find Fulani women selling wagasi from large baskets or flat trays balanced on their heads. It has become popular far beyond the north and is now enjoyed all across Benin.