The magic of ceviche is in the citrus juice. Lime and other citrus fruits contain acid, and this acid actually changes the proteins in the seafood — a process called 'denaturing' — which firms up the texture in a similar way to cooking with heat. This means fresh seafood can be prepared without a fire, using just the natural chemistry of lemon or lime juice.
Ecuador's coastal ceviche is slightly different from versions made in other countries. Ecuadorian ceviche is served with a tomato-based sauce rather than just citrus juice alone, giving it a richer, slightly sweeter flavour. The shrimp are typically cooked first and then marinated, and the dish is served chilled.
The accompaniments are an important part of the experience. Ecuadorian ceviche comes with chifles (thin, crispy slices of fried plantain), canguil (freshly popped popcorn) and sometimes toasted corn kernels called tostado. Diners scoop the seafood with the crunchy sides — the contrast of cold, tangy seafood with warm, crunchy popcorn is a favourite combination.
Ceviche is enjoyed all along Ecuador's coast, from the big city of Guayaquil to small fishing villages. In port towns, it is common to see ceviche sold fresh at beach-side stalls in the morning, made with fish brought in by boats that very day. The freshness of the ingredients is everything.