Making papa requires patience and stirring. Ground maize flour is slowly mixed into boiling water and stirred constantly until it thickens to a smooth, stiff porridge. The texture is somewhere between thick mashed potato and polenta. It has a gentle, mild flavour that goes perfectly with the earthier, slightly bitter taste of the cooked greens beside it.
Moroho can be many different types of greens — spinach, wild mustard, morogo (a type of local leafy green), or even tsweesa, a wild spinach that grows in the mountains. Women often gather moroho from fields and roadsides in the morning. Cooking it gently with a little fat brings out a rich flavour. Together with papa, it provides carbohydrates from the maize and vitamins from the greens.
In Lesotho, meals are often shared from one large bowl or pot, with everyone eating together. This makes mealtimes a social event — a moment to talk, laugh and connect. Papa is eaten with the hands: you roll a small piece into a ball, press a dent in it with your thumb, and use it to scoop up the greens. It takes a little practice but feels very natural once you get the hang of it.