To make ropa vieja, a tough cut of beef is simmered for a long time until it becomes so tender that it falls apart into long, thin shreds when pulled with a fork. These shreds are then cooked with tomatoes, garlic, onions, cumin, bay leaves and strips of red and green pepper. The result is rich, fragrant and slightly smoky - a sauce that coats every strand of meat.
The dish has a long history in Cuba, brought over by Spanish settlers and then transformed over centuries into something uniquely Cuban. Each family has its own version - some add olives or capers for a salty tang, others add a little wine. Grandmothers across Cuba are proud of their particular recipe, and food writers say that no two ropa viejas taste exactly the same.
Ropa vieja is almost always served as part of a trio: the stew itself, a mound of fluffy white rice and a bowl of black beans. This combination - known in Cuba as 'moros y cristianos' when the beans and rice are cooked together - is the heart of Cuban home cooking. A squeeze of lime juice over the plate just before eating adds a bright, fresh note that lifts all the flavours.