The spices in bariis iskukaris tell the story of Somalia's ancient trade links with the world. Cumin, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves all came originally from South and South-east Asia, and for hundreds of years Somali ports were busy trading hubs where these spices were bought and sold. Cooks blended them into their cooking, and the flavours became Somali over generations.
Making bariis iskukaris is a careful, slow process. The cook first fries onions until they are golden brown, then adds tomatoes, spices and sometimes a little xawaash (a special Somali spice mix), before adding washed rice and hot stock. The pot is covered and left to steam gently so every grain absorbs the flavour. The smell that fills the kitchen is warm, sweet and spicy all at once.
Bariis iskukaris is the centrepiece of celebrations in Somalia — weddings, festivals, family reunions and welcoming guests. It is usually cooked in a large pot to share with many people, and serving it generously is considered a great act of hospitality. Somali culture values welcoming guests warmly, and a big pot of fragrant bariis is one of the finest ways to say 'you are welcome in our home'.