The magic of fah-fah is in the slow cooking. The meat simmers for a long time until it is so tender it falls apart at the touch of a spoon, and all the spices have melted into the broth to create a rich, deep flavour. Green chillies give it a gentle heat, and the smell of it cooking fills the whole house.
Fah-fah is influenced by the many food traditions that have passed through Djibouti over centuries, mixing East African, Somali and Middle Eastern flavours. Spices like cumin and black pepper give it warmth, while tomatoes add a little sweetness. Every family has their own version, with slight variations passed down from grandparents.
In Djibouti, eating is a social event. Fah-fah is often served in a large shared bowl placed in the middle of the table or on a mat on the floor, and everyone dips in using pieces of flatbread to scoop up the meat and broth. Eating from a shared dish is a way of showing togetherness and trust.
Bread is essential with fah-fah. Sometimes the stew is poured right over a layer of bread so it soaks up all the delicious broth – a technique that makes every last drop disappear. Lahoh, the spongy Djiboutian pancake, is especially good for this.