Whale sharks are enormous – up to 12 metres long, which is about twice the length of a typical classroom. Despite their name, they are fish, not whales, and despite their size, they are completely harmless to humans. They swim slowly with their wide mouths open, filtering tiny shrimp-like creatures and plankton from the water. You can swim right next to one and they simply glide past, calm as anything.
The Gulf of Tadjoura is protected as a sanctuary, which means fishing rules help keep the whale sharks and other wildlife safe. The water here is clear and warm, and underneath the surface the coral reefs are full of colour – parrotfish, angelfish, octopuses and sea turtles all share the same waters as the whale sharks.
Whale sharks visit the gulf mainly from October to February, when the water is rich with the tiny animals they love to eat. Local guides take small groups of snorkellers out by boat. Rules are in place to make sure nobody touches the sharks or crowds too close – the idea is to watch and enjoy without disturbing them.
The experience of floating in open water next to an animal the size of a school bus, moving quietly and gently, is something people say they never forget. It reminds many visitors how big and wonderful the ocean really is.