The base of pepián is the sauce, and making it from scratch is a real craft. Pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds, and dried chillies are first toasted dry in a pan to bring out their flavour, then ground together with tomatoes, tomatillos (small green tomatoes with a papery husk), and spices. The resulting paste is deep red-brown and smells toasty and rich.
The sauce is cooked with chicken, pork, or vegetables — sometimes all three — and simmers for a long time so that all the flavours come together. It is served with rice and fresh warm tortillas for scooping. In many Guatemalan families, everyone has their own version of the recipe, passed down through generations.
There are several regional varieties of pepián. Red pepián uses more dried red chillies and is richer and darker. Green pepián uses pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, and fresh herbs and has a brighter, lighter taste. Both are considered equally traditional.
Pepián appears on special occasions as well as everyday dinners. At weddings, festivals, and family gatherings, a huge pot of pepián simmering on the stove is a sign that something important is being celebrated. The smell of the toasting seeds alone is enough to make most Guatemalans feel instantly at home.